THE ULTIMATE GUIDE TO SPEND 2 OR 3 DAYS IN BEIRUT

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Beirut has several facets. It is more a patchwork of distinct quarters and by no means a one-day city. Although there are no world-famous attractions, you can spend several days discovering each of its districts. I walked to almost every corner, and I’m eager to share with you my tips about the places to visit in Beirut in 2 or 3 days. As usual, the places to eat and drink are based on the suggestion of local guides who are the most up-to-date with local trends.

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Its strange chaotic architecture is a blend of Ottoman, French, bullet-ridden, and modern buildings standing in sharp contrast next to each other. The city went through an extensive reconstruction after the civil war that had a double effect on the city’s appearance. Downtown Beirut became super modern, whereas the scars of the war are hard to miss. Beirut enjoys the most vibrant nightlife in the Middle East, or at least it was true before the economic crisis the country plunged into. It is in huge contrast with the conservative Tripoli, the second-biggest city in Lebanon. It is easy to like Beirut, not saying that it is perfect. It lacks public places, gardens free access to the beach, only to say a few examples.

How to discover Beirut

Since it has several districts and points of interest spreading within kilometers of distances, covering everything on foot might be tiring. You had better catch a “service taxi” (shared taxi) or a private taxi. 

A shared taxi means that drivers pick other people on the way, each passenger paying less than for a private ride depending on the distance. You do not even have to look for that. If you stop along the road, taxis automatically stop and ask if you want a ride.

The other option is to take a bus, but the system is confusing. There are no timetables and information about the routes is unclear. Among many other things, public bus transport is also not organized by the state. A few years ago, a group of students made the city’s bus plan, but unfortunately, their website for downloading the bus routes is not available anymore.

Bus 15 goes along the Corniche and is a perfect way to get quickly from Downtown Beirut to Bourj Hammoud. Ask the locals which bus to take to your destination. 

Arrival in Beirut/how to get from the airport to the city

The easiest way to get from the airport to Beirut is to take a taxi. In October 2021, they charge approximately 10-15 USD for an airport transfer. As usual, taxi drivers are on the lurk, and you must bargain to get a reasonable price or book a transfer online in advance.

Is Beirut safe for solo (female) travelers?

Yes. Beirut is safe for every traveler, even if you are alone as a woman as I did. It may look scary at first that the city turns quite dark after sunset. Because of the electricity shortage, there is no public light. Locals navigate in the dark sections with their mobile’s flash function, and it is absolutely fine to stay out at night. Take care as in any other metropolis in the world.

However, the severe economic and political crisis can evoke protests at any time, occasionally even deadly clashes. Be up-to-date and check the news regularly.

The biggest danger you encounter is still on the road as Lebanese drivers are reckless. Traffic lights are not working, but even if they do, drivers ignore them.

How to spend 2 days in Beirut 

The best places to visit in 2 days in Beirut:

Day 1: 

• Walk around Raouché, get close to the Pigeon Rocks, have a coffee or a meal in one of the cafés/restaurants on the cliffs with a view of the hollowed rocks;
• Go to Hamra and stroll around the park of the American University of Beirut;
• Head to Downtown Beirut, “the ghost city”;
• Go to Martyr’s square and check out the Mohammad Al-Amine mosque and the St. George Maronite Cathedral;
• Stroll around Saifi village:
• Go out at night to Zaitunay bay, and have dinner in one of the cozy restaurants. Also, it is an excellent opportunity to try nargileh. 

Day 2:

• Visit Ashrafieh and the Sursock museum (expected to open in January 2022) 
• Visit the National Museum
• Stroll around the Armenian district, Bourj Hammoud
•  Go out at night in Gemmayzeh or Mar Mikhael 

How to spend 3 days in Beirut

Visit some places near Beirut on Day 3:

• Go to Jounieh and take the cable car to Harissa to enjoy the view
• Visit Jeita grotto, a nature wonder of Lebanon
• Have lunch in Gemmayzeh
• Take part in a guided tour with Alternative tours to understand Beirut behind the scenes (the tours take place on Saturdays and Sundays but the time is not fix)

You find below the most important tourist spots and recommendations in Beirut according to districts. 

Ras Beirut: Raouché, Manara, Verdun

Ras Beirut is the wealthy residential part of Beirut that includes Raouché and Manara stretching along the Mediterranean coast.

Raouché

When the Corniche ascends steeply along the Avenue du Général de Gaulle, you arrive in Raouché with plenty of high-rise residential apartments, cafés and restaurants. 

Here are the scenic Pigeon Rocks rising from the sea. You can climb down to get closer like locals do. To the north of that, Ramlet al-Baida is a stretch of sandy beach, the only public beach left in Beirut without an entrance fee. Otherwise, the entire coast was developed with private clubs depriving most Lebanese of enjoying their time on the beach. 

There is a tiny café as the road bends before catching sight of the Pigeon Rocks. Grab a coffee or have a meal in one of the restaurants and enjoy the fantastic panorama.  

Hamra

Hamra connects Ras Beirut and the Downtown district. It is where most tourists stay with a big range of low-mid and upper-range accommodations. Thanks to the reputed American University of Beirut and the Lebanese American University, it is the student hub of Beirut. It has plenty of bars, cheap eateries along its main street, Rue Bliss. 

Before the Lebanese civil war (1975-1990), it was the trendy center of Beirut. After the war, Gemmayzeh and Ashrafiyeh became the new hubs. In the 1990s, the government gave Hamra a facelift to re-attract the wealthy tourists and became known as “Beirut’s Champs Elysée”. 

Apart from the buzzing day and nightlife, the American University of Beirut is the only tourist attraction of Hamra. Enter through the nicely carved main entrance gate and wander around the park that is probably the biggest green area in the city. The AUB is the most prestigious university in the country and maybe the entire Middle East, founded in 1866 that did not close its doors even during the civil war. 

The Corniche

The seaside promenade is where most Lebanese families and couples hang around in the evening, irrespective of their financial background. Children come to play, people chat, and you get the feeling of a seemingly relaxed life, except that the lights are scarce because of the lack of electricity. 

The Zaitunay Bay, running along the Corniche just to the east of St Georges Hotel, is a glossy shorefront promenade with a range of restaurants and cafés facing the yachts of the glossy marina. 

Opposite Zaitunay Bay, right next to the extravagant Phoenicia Hotel towers, stands the derelict Holiday Inn like a skeleton since it was burnt and destroyed during the civil war. The contrast could not be more striking. Once, it was the scene of glamorous parties and hotspot of the glitzy Mediterranean lifestyle.  

Some say it is Beirut’s memorial of the war. They opened the hotel only a few months before the fights started. Militias fought for its control and it became an ideal sniper nest. The iconic building’s destruction, once the scene of a vibrant cosmopolitan social life, was an enormous trauma for Beirut. 

The Holiday Inn building is part of the modern and controversial section of Beirut, the Downtown district.

Beirut downtown (Beirut Central District)—”the ghost city”

Beirut downtown is the product of a massive after-war reconstruction. It is the project of Solidère (Société Libanaise pour le Développement et la Reconstruction du Centre-Ville de Beyrouth) founded by Rafiq Hariri former prime minister in 1994. There was one critical issue to be solved. Tens of thousands of owners owned properties and lands in the area, who had to move to give way to the large-scale project. Finally, these owners got a share in Solidère in return, and outside investors could also invest. But they significantly underpriced the properties. The compensation under market value outraged the Lebanese people who felt being ripped off.  

It is entirely pedestrianized, perfectly clean, and modern, designed to accommodate fancy shops of famous brands like Gucci, stylish bars, and restaurants for the mid-and upper-class. However, there is one thing that strikes the eye. Most of the spaces are empty or under construction. That’s why locals call it a ghost city. The rental prices are so high that only a few business owners can afford them. So apart from a few luxury brand shops and trendy cafes, the area is a quiet place to wander around that lacks people and life.

They estimate the works to continue for who knows how long, maybe decades.

Rue Weygand is the principal road that crosses the district. Along that is the Samir Kassir square with the statue of the renowned journalist killed by a car bomb on 2nd June 2005. He was a leading critic of Syrian intervention in Lebanon and the investigations remain open. Before the death of Rafiq Hariri, Kassir devoted much of his writing to condemning Solidere’s redevelopment.

The Place d’Etoile is a central square of Downtown Beirut with several roads radiating from it like in Paris. However, the government shut it off by concrete blocks and barbed wire fences from every side, which makes it inaccessible for the moment. It was the scene of protests, and the government installed these barricades to stop people from gathering there. 

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Martyr’s square 

It is one of the few open places of Beirut with the Mohammad Al-Amin mosque in the center, and thus the ideal spot for Lebanese to protest. It got its name after the execution of the rebellion leaders against the Ottoman rule in 1916.

The Lebanese singer, adored by every Lebanese, Fayrouz, gave a concert on the Martyr’s square in 1994 to incite reunification and peace in the war-torn city. 

Later, one million Lebanese protested against the Syrian interference on 14th March 2005 after the former prime minister, Rafiq Hariri’s death.  

On 17th October 2019, Lebanese people, regardless of their religions and sects, united and protested against the corrupt government that pushed the country into poverty and a deep financial crisis. 

The recently built Mohammad Al-Amin Mosque (Blue Mosque or Rafiq Hariri Mosque) is Lebanon’s largest mosque, with a vast interior prayer hall that can accommodate thousands of people. Just to its side is the memorial tomb of ex-prime minister Rafiq Hariri who financed the mosque’s construction. He was buried along the infamous “Green Line” that divided Beirut during the civil war. 

Next to the mosque stands the Maronite Cathedral of St George that is also worth a visit.

Near the Martyr’s square, you will see a massive ugly, grey egg-shaped structure, and you wonder what it can be as locals go to spend time inside. The former movie theater was designed to be part of a shopping complex, the biggest in the Middle East, but remained unfinished. Locals make use of that again, and it has become a symbolic place of the current events. If you want to know more about that or other stories that only locals can tell you, I highly recommend signing up for the guided tours of “Alternative Tour Beirut” at the weekends. Their Beirut tours help you understand the city and its people behind the scenes.

Saifi village

This charming part of Beirut, with colorful, stylish residential buildings, galleries, art shops, and cozy cafés, links the Martyr’s Square with Gemmayzeh. 

Gemmayzeh, Achrafieh and Mar Michael

Gemmayzeh got its name after the mulberry tree, abundant in Beirut over a hundred years ago when 80% of the Lebanese economy was based on silk production. They extracted raw silk from the silkworms on the mulberry tree leaves. Gemmayzeh was also the red-light district of Beirut port city, where traders spent two weeks before moving further.

Some of the few flights of public stairs of Beirut are found in this district. These provided access to the railway that once connected Beirut with Damascus. Climb the Saint Nicolas Stairs in Gemmayzeh, the longest public stairs in the Middle East.  

Gemmayzeh and Achrafieh are commonly known as the most popular places to enjoy the nightlife in Beirut. Most pubs and restaurants stand along Rue Gouraud in Gemmayzeh and Rue Monot in Achrafieh.

However, Mar Mikhael is emerging as a new hotspot to hang out. The center of nightlife changes every 4-5 years because the Lebanese youth get bored and want some change.

The Sursock museum‘s stain glasses broke during the explosion of 4th August 2020. The modern contemporary art museum is still under renovation, with a plan to open it in January 2021. There is no entrance fee. Even without visiting, it is worth having a look from the outside, as its unique architecture combines Venetian and Ottoman elements typical in Lebanon at the turn of the century.

Bourj Hammoud—the Armenian quarter

After Achrafieh, you reach Bourj Hammoud, the “Armenian quarter” of Beirut. The survivors of the Armenian genocide fled the Ottoman persecution and settled down in today’s Lebanon. What they planned to be a temporary settlement proved to become their ultimate home. So they created an Armenian city in Lebanon, and the Armenian inscriptions are a clear indicator of where you are.

The resistance during the civil war made them hold together even more than before. The quarter has extremely narrow alleys and countless shops where they sell literally everything from rugs, Armenian embroidery, spices, dried fruits. Apart from Armenians, Shiites, other Christians, Syrian refugees also live here that was never a problem. A khachkar (cross-stone) set up in 2015 commemorates the Armenian genocide.

“The Greenline” of Beirut

The Green Line, marked by Rue de Damas that divided the Christian East Beirut from the Muslim West Beirut, still carries the signs of the war with countless bullet-marked and bombed-out buildings along. It was called the Green Line because green vegetation covered the narrow separation corridor. Anyone crossing the line could have immediately shot. The division is of the past now, but many older people who lived in the civil war never got over the trauma and still dread to move freely between distinct parts of Beirut. 

Check out “Sama Beirut”, the tallest building of Beirut with 89 floors of offices and residential apartments. The 195-meter high skyscraper cost 200 million dollars to build and was opened in 2016.

Alternative Tour Beirut is a group of young people who offer two tours: Green Line tour and Alternative Tour Beirut. They do fantastic work showing you hidden gems, places that are otherwise not accessible to the public. They also talk about the cruel period of civil war and the current hardships of Lebanon. Taking at least one of these tours gives you a better understanding of Lebanon.

The National Museum of Beirut standing along the demarcation line was heavily shelled, bombed, and had to close. They hid the most precious artifacts in the basement, walled them up, and protected other statues and sarcophagi with sandbags and concrete blocks. After the civil war, it reopened in 1999. It gives an excellent overview of the archeological treasures of the city from prehistoric to the Mamluk times.

Opening hours: 09:00–14:00—shortened opening hours because of electricity shortage, but they did not update it on the internet.

Entrance: 7000 LBP

A symbolic building along the Green Line is Beit Beirut, the infamous nest of snipers. This is where the Lebanese civil war becomes the most palpable. It has a small exhibit with photo collections from pre-war time, sniper stands, and graffiti intended to be a war memorial museum. Unfortunately, it is not open to the public and only hosts private cultural events. I was so glad to participate in the Green Line tour of Alternative Tour Beirut, organized by a group of young Lebanese who could take us for a visit with special permission. 

Shatila Palestinian refugee camp

There are hundreds of thousands of Palestinian refugees in Lebanon who escaped the Arab-Israeli war in 1948 and landed in refugee camps. One of them is Shatila in Beirut. Syrian refugees also joined the camp after the outbreak of the Syrian civil war in 2011. By now, about 10-20 000 refugees live in Shatila. 

Palestinian refugees have no citizenship in Lebanon and get only hardly integrated into the Lebanese society that puts them into incredible hardship. They are segregated in the refugee camps.

The Shatila Camp Children and Youth Centre operates a guesthouse that welcomes visitors for short- and long-term stays. Call them in advance, and they help you find your way or navigate the driver.

When going to the Shatila camp, you must know about the “Sabra and Shatila massacre” when hundreds if not thousands of Palestinians and Lebanese Shiites were killed by Christian Phalangist militias sent by the Israeli forces 16-18 September 1982. The Israeli army invaded Lebanon in 1982 in response to the attempted murder of the Israeli ambassador to London. 

The southern districts, known collectively as the Dahiya

This poverty-stricken area with blocks of highrise dilapidated buildings is what you see first from the airport to Beirut. It is home to the city’s Shiite population and the Palestine refugee camps.

Where to sleep in Beirut

Although Lebanon is now one of the cheapest places to visit, accommodation can quickly increase your expenses as they set the prices in dollars or LBP according to the actual black-market rate, not the official one. Plus, especially the countryside, lacks low-budget accommodation. However, if you wish to rent lovely mountain or beachside villas, or luxury apartments, you have plenty of options.

The best low-budget options in Beirut (20-35USD)

Saifi Urban Gardens was the top choice of backpackers earlier, but sadly, it was severely damaged by the explosion of 4th August 2020 and had to shut down. Instead, the Hamra Urban Gardens is the new favorite of travelers.

Hamra Urban Gardens: This complex in Hamra has dormitories and private rooms, a bar with live music at the weekend, and a rooftop bar with a pool. 

Embassy Hotel: It is in the center of Hamra, the busy student district. The rooms are not charming; the carpet is old, but the bathrooms are renovated, and the friendly staff makes up for it. It costs around 25 USD/night.

Regis hotel: It is probably the best low-budget option in the city, that offers spacious rooms with a balcony and private bathroom close to Zaitunay bay. It is located halfway between Hamra and the Gemmayzeh, the two famous nightlife districts, 20 minutes walk from each and a few hundred meters from the Corniche.The staff is welcoming, and it is probably the best price-quality option you can get in Beirut now. I stayed here most of the time. The 25 USD/night price makes it a great deal as dormitory beds cost 20-25 USD/night.

Hotel Meshmosh in Gemmayzeh, right next to the stairs of Saint Nicolas, offers dormitories and private rooms. Foreigners favor it in the heart of the vibrant party district. 

Talal hotel: You will not find this low-budget hotel on the online booking portals. Sadly, the explosion of 4th August 2020 caused enormous damages. In the lack of any state support, the owner renovated one floor with a couple of rooms. It was a favorite budget option earlier, offering private rooms (with shared or private bathrooms) and dorm beds. If you are looking for some low-budget option, go there and ask about a room. It stands in one of the side streets to the Martyr’s square without any indication. Once you are around, locals will tell you which building is that.

Another option: look for Airbnb apartments that are abundant in Gemmayzeh and Mar Mikhael. You find some good deals if you stay longer. 

The best mid-range hotel:

Palm Beach Warwick – 4 star (perfect location with sea view and roof-top pool)

The best upper range hotel:

Hotel Albergo in Achrafieh – 5 star (stylish luxury hotel with roof-top pool)

What to eat in Beirut

Lebanon stands out in the region with its tasty cuisine. Apart from the Arab cuisine you can find international, Japanese, Italian and French restaurants as well.

Street food is extremely delicious. You can grab a falafel, shawarma, and Za’atar Man’ouche (flat bread with spices) at every corner.

Where to eat in Beirut?

Abou Hassan: The tiny simple restaurant is in on a corner close to the beach where Hamra and Ras Beirut meets. This traditional Lebanese restaurant is a perfect place to try meze

Tawlet: it is an authentic restaurant chain that specialized on home-made specialties made by local cooks from all over Lebanon. They have a restaurant in Hamra and Mar Mikhael and even outside Beirut. It is a perfect place to have lunch and is open 9-5 pm.

T-Marbouta: pleasant restaurant with inner courtyard offering local dishes for a reasonable price in Hamra

Mezyan: a family-run Mediterranean eatery and pub in Hamra, serving a range of foods that includes Moroccan tajin, Spanish tapas, and brick oven pizza, and Lebanese mezze. On specific nights it has live music as well.

Raseef Beirut: a hidden gem in one alley in Hamra that offers Lebanese and Mediterranean food. It is a simple, cozy place that offers vegan food as well.

Le chef: an old restaurant with a long tradition also featured in one of the late chef Anthony Bourdain documentaries. The restaurant was heavily damaged in the explosion on 4th August 2020. Russell Crowe donated a significant amount for the reconstruction in the chef’s memory.

Mayrig: an iconic Armenian restaurant in Gemmyzeh, founded by descendants of Armenian refugees who escaped the genocide. The restaurant, especially famous for its cherry kebab, was heavily damaged in the explosion but reopened since then.

The ultimate travel guide to Lebanon

Where to drink the best coffee?

Lebanon has a huge coffee culture. You can grab a coffee at every corner. However, it is not the same quality everywhere. Here is the list of the best cafes in Beirut based on locals’ suggestion.

– Riwaq (Mar Mikhael)

– Bn (Gemmayzeh)

– Unicorn (Broummana, Mount Lebanon, outside Beirut)

– Cafe Younes (Asrafieh)

– Beyt Café (Mar Mikhael)

Beirut is one of the best places to visit in the Middle East. It has multiple facets, a lively and relaxing atmosphere along the Mediterranean coast, with the region’s best cuisine. The buildings reflect the tumultuous past and present, the potentials and the unprocessed scars of the war. There are no world-famous attractions; still, days pass by strolling on the streets and immersing in the local life. Locals speaking English make it also easy to find your way. Not a one-day and not a one-time city for sure!

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