Western tourists won’t fully appreciate Karni Mata temple! But it is still an important religious site that helps to understand better the Hindu culture. Take a train from Bikaner, the city well-known for its palaces and forts, and for one of the world’s largest camel research and breeding farms to the small town called Deshnok some 30 km away. The train station is simple and does not give you the impression of being a famous pilgrimage destination. However, this is not the first time in India that I have come across real gems at the most remote and incredible places.
Deshnoke’s „rat temple” gives home to almost 25,000 rats, which are worshipped as „Kabbas” (little children) as they are considered reincarnations of human beings. Many Hindus undertake a long journey to revere the goddess, Karni Mata, and the temple rats. The current temple was built by Maharaja Ganga Singh in the 1900s and is not the only one dedicated to Karni Mata, but definitely the most important.
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It is a general rule that you have to take off your shoes when you enter a Hindu temple. But it was a little bit shocking to hear that with 25 000 rats running around over your feet and around you, I had to remove my socks as well and walk around with bare feet!
Many come as early as 4 am for the morning puja. But you may probably be even more impressed to see the temple in the evening when the rats are rushing to get to their food.
The legend of Karni Mata
The temple is dedicated to Shri Karniji Maharaj, also called Karni Mata, who is believed to be an incarnation of the warrior Goddess Durga. She was born in the Charan clan and lived for over 150 years when she mysteriously disappeared from her home in the 15th century. She pursued an ascetic life and gained several followers. The royal families of Jodhpur and Bikaner respected her so much that they often prayed for her blessings and advice.
There are two legends about why rats are worshipped here:
- Once, an army of 20,000 soldiers was defeated in a nearby battle and found refuge in the village of Deshnok. When Mata learned that the soldiers sinned by desertion that is punishable by death, she decided to spare their lives by turning them into rats.
- Another legend says that once Karni Mata’s stepson Laxman drowned in a pond while drinking water. Mata prayed to Yama, the god of death, to spare his life. Yama first refused to help, but later relented, on the condition that Karni Mata and all her stepchildren be reincarnated as rats. They were actually reborn in two forms: as rats or as men, known as „Charans”, and they have remained in her service in the temple since then. And once they give up their life as rats, they would be born again as human beings in the family of Depavats, as her descendants are known today.
513 Depavats families are the priests and protectors of the temple and the rats. They feed the holy animals, clean and maintain the temple daily. Some families even live in the temple permanently and are believed to be the descendants of Karni Mata. All families get an equal share of the offerings at the temple and alternatively take the priest role. Ten percent is kept apart for the needy among the Depavats. Forty percent of the rest is divided among the 513 Depavat families. The rest is kept in a fund that is used for the temple’s upkeep and developmental works.
How to behave with the holy rats in the Karni Mata temple
The rats assemble around a silver plate full of milk or come out of the small holes specially designed to make it „rat-friendly”.
According to tradition, it brings luck if you manage to spot one of the only 4-5 white rats among the 20,000 grey ones. These white rats are believed to be Karni Mata herself and her four sons. It is common for Hindus to visit before launching a big project in quest of a blessing. Surprisingly, these rats do not bite any devotees who enter the temple. You believe it or not, despite the high population of rats, Deshonk has never been afflicted by a plague. It is also said when one rat dies, another one is born right at that moment.
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I literally held back my breath and managed to go around without being touched by a rat, but sometimes they are so densely covering the floor that it is impossible to avoid them.
The Karni Mata Festival takes place twice yearly (March/April and October/November) when plenty of devotees participate in the cultural programs. At this time, the Depavats nicely decorate the idol of Karni Mata with a golden crown, jewelry, and garlands.
After visiting the temple, we decided to have a bite in a nearby restaurant. And when I saw a rat just crossing the place close to where the meal was being prepared, I couldn’t think about eating anymore, and I felt it was time to leave. Rats in the city are just simple rats, as only those living in the temple are regarded as the reincarnation of Karni Mata’s stepsons.
A thrilling experience that I will always remember when playing with my niece and nephew with the retractable phosphorescent rat toys I brought them as a souvenir from one of the stalls next to the temple.
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by Agnes Simigh
I’m a passionate tour guide and travel writer, who is curious to discover places that seldom catch the attention of the media or that are misrepresented. My goal is to inspire you to choose off-the-beaten-track destinations by sharing objective and detailed information. I believe that it is mainly the lack of “intel” that keeps us away from incredible places. And that just shouldn’t be the case.