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I traveled solo as a woman in Jordan in February 2022, using public transport and renting a car and discovered that Jordan is not as backpacker friendly as some other countries despite being one of the most popular travel destinations in the Middle East. I still enjoyed my trip, but I wanted to sum up the most important things that everybody should know for planning a trip to Jordan, including dress code, culture, accommodation, the best time to visit, unique local trips, and extra tips for travelers.
Before you continue reading, check my post about the Jordan 10-day travel itinerary that you can use as well.
- How to get a visa to Jordan (visa on arrival)?
- Visa-free arrival and departure from Aqaba
- Entry rules to Jordan
- Is the Jordan Pass worth it?
- Where to change money upon arrival in Aqaba?
- Sim card
- When is the best time to visit Jordan?
- What I don't like about Jordan
- Is Jordan safe for solo female travelers?
- Backpacking in Jordan
- Travel on a budget in Jordan, tips to reduce your Jordan travel costs
- Wadi Rum jeep tours
- Best Jordan (road trip) itinerary
- Jordan adventure: hiking in the wadis
- Local tours Jordan
- Weekend in Jordan
- How to visit Petra in one day?
- Jordanian people and hospitality
- The Bedouins in Jordan
- Is Jordan a conservative Muslim country?
- Jordan dress code: what clothes to wear in Jordan as a woman
- Women in Jordan
- Honor killings
- Other articles about Jordan
- Other posts about the Middle East
- Pin it for later!
- Other posts about Jordan
How to get a visa to Jordan (visa on arrival)?
You’ll need a visa to enter Jordan. Depending on your nationality, you must arrange it in advance, or you can get it upon arrival. Several nationalities are entitled to a visa on arrival. In this case, the price is around 40JOD ~56 USD, which you must pay at the airports or land borders.
You can buy a single-entry visa valid for one month on arrival at the
- airports
- Sheikh Hussein/North Border crossing at the Jordan/Israel border
- Jaber crossing between Jordan /Syria
- Karameh border crossing (Iraq/Jordan).
Important: A visa on arrival is not granted if you cross the Allenby/King Hussein Bridge border. Also,check with the Jordanian authorities if you’re planning to cross the Wadi Araba/(Aqaba/Eilat). An exit tax, currently 10JOD, is payable at all border crossings except the airports.
Visa-free arrival and departure from Aqaba
Many don’t know that those who arrive in Aqaba and depart from Aqaba via ferry or flight do not need a visa since it is a special economic zone. This applies to the nationalities that are anyway entitled to get a visa on arrival. But even then, if you only visit the highlights of Jordan (Petra, Wadi Rum and Jerash), it is cheaper to buy the Jordan Pass (visa+entrance tickets) than the single entrance tickets.
Entry rules to Jordan
As of 1st March 2022, Jordan and Israel lifted all travel restrictions. There is no need for a PCR test before departure and upon arrival or to be vaccinated, remarkably reducing travel costs. The same applies to Israel, so you can easily combine visiting the two countries.
However, you need to
– fill out a declaration form and obtain a QR code that has to be presented upon boarding.
– A valid travel insurance
SafetyWing is a cheap option for any nationals that covers Covid related issues but not the loss or damage of your valuables during your trip. I have used it for all my trips lately.
All these things are checked at the airport of departure. You will be denied boarding the flight if any of them is missing.
Note: Always check the latest entry restrictions before your departure, as rules can change from one day to another.
How to plan your trip to Jordan?
Flights: find the best flight deals on Skyscanner
Rent a car: Check Discover Cars‘ deals for driving around in Jordan (the best way to discover the country)
Insurance: Safetywing is a cheap insurance that covers all medical issues, including COVID-related ones. This is what I use every time.
Hotel/Hostel: Booking.com
Local tours and guides in Jordan: Toursbylocals, GetYourGuide and Viator offer several customized tours to Petra
Is the Jordan Pass worth it?
The Jordan Pass is an excellent offer from the Jordanian government that makes it easier to get a visa and access plenty of attractions at the same time if, based on your nationality, you are eligible for that. In most cases, it is a great deal with the advantage of not having to join the queue at the ticket counters and sparing a significant amount of money. The Jordan Pass is worth buying even if you benefit from the visa-free arrival and departure from Aqaba and you only visit the most important highlights: Petra, Wadi Rum and Jerash. However, there are some preconditions to buying the Jordan Pass. Here you will find all the information about the Jordan Pass.
The different types of Jordan Passes
The Jordan Pass has three different prices depending on how many days you spend in Petra and includes the visa fee.
With one-day entry to Petra: 70 JOD~ 99 USD
With 2 days entry to Petra: 75 JOD~ 106 USD
With 3 days entry: 80 JOD ~113 USD
It means that it is already worth buying it if you only need a visa and plan to visit Petra (40JOD+50JOD). However, it includes entrance to almost 40 tourist attractions.
With the Jordan Pass, you will save money and time. You also get free downloadable digital brochures covering all of Jordan’s tourist attractions.
Here you find the actual entrance and visa fees so that you can compare your costs with or without the Jordan Pass:
– 1-day entry fee to Petra: 50 JOD (71 USD)
– 2-day entry fee to Petra: 55 JOD (77USD)
– 3-days entry fee to Petra: 60 JOD (85 USD)
– Visa with one-month validity: 40 JOD
– Double entry with validity for 3 months: 60 JOD
In any case, if you need a multiple entry visa, you must arrange that in advance at a Jordanian embassy, as Jordan Pass only applies to a single entry.
Restrictions about the Jordan Pass
– You can only get the Jordan Pass if you spend a minimum of 3 nights/4 days in Jordan
– It is a one-time entry visa valid for 14 days.
It means that you cannot benefit from the Jordanian Pass if you want to spend more than two weeks in Jordan or need a multiple-entry visa because you travel to Israel and back.
– Although the list of nationalities eligible for visas on arrival is extensive, citizens of some countries do not qualify for the Jordan Pass. You can only get the Jordan Pass if you are entitled to a visa upon arrival.
You can check here the visa rules that apply to your country.
– Travelers crossing from Israel to Jordan: Jordan Pass holders of non-restricted nationalities can cross the Wadi Araba and Sheikh Hussein border without a beforehand visa. They can have one upon arrival at the border. However, King Hussein Bridge border crossing does not issue a visa on arrival, even for Jordan Pass holders.
Attractions included in the Jordan Pass
Petra: 50 JOD for one day.
Jerash: 12 JOD
Wadi Rum: 5 JOD
Amman Citadel: 2 JOD
Ajloun Castle: 3 JOD
Umm Qays: 5 JOD
Qasr al-Azraq, Qasr al Kharanah, Qaseyr Amra, Qasr Al-Mushatta: 3 JOD
Karak castle and museum: 2 JOD
Pella: 2 JOD
Qasr al-Hallabat: 3 JOD
Qasr Hammam Al-Sarh
Umm Ar-Rasas: 2 JOD
Umm Qays Museum: 3 JOD
Umm al-Jimal: 2 JOD
Shobak Castle: 1 JOD
Al-Hamimah: 3 JOD
Museum of Popular Traditions – Amman: 2 JOD
Aqaba Museum:1 JOD
Madaba Archaeological Museum: 3 JOD
As-Salt Museum: 2 JOD
Aqaba Castle: 3 JOD
Dar Al-Saraya Museum – Irbid: 2 JOD
Roman Theatre Amman: 2 JOD
Lowest Place on Earth Museum: 2 JOD
Entrance fees not included in the Jordanian Pass
– St. George Church – 1 JOD
– St. John the Baptist Church – 1 JOD
– Bethanie, the Baptism site – 12 JOD
– Hammamat Ma’in – 15 JOD
– King Abdullah Mosque in Amman – 2 JOD
– Jordan Museum in Amman- 5 JOD
– Mount Nebo – 3 JOD
– The Royal Automobile Museum in Amman – 3 JOD
– Petra by night – 17 JOD
Where to buy the Jordan Pass?
You can buy the Jordan Pass here. First, you must book your flight ticket, as it requires the name of your airline on the form.
Apart from buying the Jordan Pass, remember to fill out the entry form for Jordan.
In most cases, they do not even check, only ask if you possess the Jordan Pass, as most tourists have it. However, in some places, they do have a look at it, so always have it with you on your phone. Another advantage is that you do not need to wait for the ticket office to open in Petra in the morning. You can head as early as you want before the groups and most travelers arrive.
Where to change money upon arrival in Aqaba?
Change some at the airport, at least upon arrival, because even if the driver accepts dollars, he might not have any foreign currency or small money to return if you don’t have the exact amount. After you reach downtown, there are several money changers. They offer a slightly but not tremendously better rate than at the airport. 1 USD~ 1.4 JOD.
Sim card
Upon arrival, you can buy a local sim card (22GB, unlimited calls) for 11 JOD, indispensable during your trip whether you rent a car or travel alone.
When is the best time to visit Jordan?
Weather in Jordan in summer (June- August)
The summer months June-August can be scorching in the whole of Jordan. Although prices are lower, many places close at this time. Visiting Petra requires a lot of walking, which is less fun in such weather. The weather in Wadi Rum is also extremely hot during the day.
Weather in Jordan in March-May and October-November
It is the best time for cultural travel in Jordan when the temperature is warm during the day and pleasantly cool in the evening.
However, Wadi Mujib, the most popular trail, is only open from April to October. Even then, the opening time depends on weather conditions because rainfall can cause unexpected floods in the canyon. If you plan to go hiking in Jordan, check the opening times before.
Aqaba weather December, January and February
Aqaba is always hotter than other places but even there, the temperature drops after sunset.
Best time to visit the Dead Sea
Since the lowest point on earth is at the Dead Sea (~408 meters below sea level), winter is mild, and summer is hot. Even during winter, you can swim in the famously salty lake, although you may feel the outside temperature could be slightly higher. In other months, you can fully enjoy the Dead Sea.
Wadi Rum weather
During the day, it may be pleasant, although strong wind can give an uncomfortable feeling. Winter nights can be freezing, and some hostels and low-budget desert camps do not have heating. However, finding accommodation for lower prices is easier, and you can avoid mass tourism. I was in Wadi Rum in the otherwise fantastic low-budget Fire Camp without heating in February. I took as many layers as possible, but it was cold at night despite having extra blankets. It was okay not having a relaxing night as I loved Wadi Rum and the simple but cozy camp. But you may want to choose accommodation with more comfort during winter or plan your trip after winter.
Check other Wadi Rum desert camps here
Amman weather in October, November, December, January, February and March
The capital and the region to the north are colder than the deserted areas and the low-lying Dead Sea. While temperature rarely drops below zero, it can be as low as 3-6 Celsius.
The best time to visit Amman is in spring and even summer when the temperature is colder than in the rest of the country.
What I don’t like about Jordan
Jordan is not the cheapest travel destination and also not backpacker-friendly despite being the most touristic country in the Middle East. Backpackers often need to think about how to get to the next place or try to share a ride with others, which requires extra organization. Every bus route and entrance fees linked to the tourist sites are much more expensive. The best and cheapest way to get around is by renting a car that gives you enough flexibility.
Jordanians can be pushy when approaching women. Compliments may feel good in the beginning, but getting approached by men who hardly know you every 5 minutes quickly gets boring and proves that it is not serious. Of course, I don’t say that it is always like that, as many Western ladies ended up having Jordanian husbands and established a happy life in Jordan).
Jordan is one of the most touristic travel destinations in the Middle East. If you look for an off-the-beaten-track destination where you can feel like a discoverer, Jordan may sometimes be disappointing, especially in Petra, Wadi Rum, or the Dead Sea. However, there are still places that are often not on the bucket list of travelers (Umm Qais, Dana Biosphere Reserve, hiking in the wadis, the side trails of Petra) if you are looking for unique travel experiences.
Is Jordan safe for solo female travelers?
Jordan is one of the safest countries in the Middle East. Even solo female travelers have no problem traveling around apart from the above-mentioned endless compliments and love confessions. It is not the lack of safety but rather the underdeveloped public transport that makes it more complicated to get around alone.
You can also walk freely as a solo female traveler in Amman, the capital, and take public transport without a problem. I felt as safe as in some other countries in the Middle East, like Lebanon, Iran, Iraq, or Oman.
Backpacking in Jordan
Jordan is not a backpacker-friendly country for transportation. Although it is possible, public transportation is often rare or even non-existent between touristic places. If you want to complete your whole trip by bus and shared taxis, it will take some more days.
Here you can book your buses and private transport in Jordan
If you usually travel around by public transport, you might reconsider it when getting around in Jordan. Some places are incredibly time-consuming, with one ride a day if there is any.
These places are troublesome or impossible to reach with public transportation:
Shobak castle, Dana, the Jordan desert castles, the small stops along the Dead Sea (Bethany -the baptism place, Hammamat Main, Viewpoints, Mount Nebo, Mukawir, swimming places, wadis along the Dead Sea)
Check this article about the best Jordan itineraries
The quality of roads is good enough; some highways are excellent, with less crazy traffic than in other Arab countries. I traveled with public transportation between most places but rented a car for two days to get to the desert castles and get around the Dead Sea.
Even if you find public transport, it can take a long time until it gets full and departs.
Renting a car and driving around during your trip is the easiest way to discover Jordan.
If you don’t want to rent a car, you can rent a taxi with a driver, but it will increase your budget.
Also, some hostels in Aqaba and Amman organize one-day tours to the most popular places, which is an excellent way to share costs. You have less chance of finding other travelers if you visit Jordan outside the peak season, but the touristic sites are not crowded with tourists.
Always ask about the possible day trips upon arrival.
Travel on a budget in Jordan, tips to reduce your Jordan travel costs
Prices in Jordan
Traveling to Jordan can be very expensive, but with some effort and tips, you can also keep it low. In the end, travelers can end up spending very different amounts on their trips to Jordan.
Starting cost (visa + entrance fees+ flight)
I mentioned above that the Jordan Pass costs 50 JOD (~71 USD) for one day in Petra and 55 JOD (~78 USD) for two days in Petra.
Your flight costs depend on where you come from, of course. From European countries, there are even low-cost airlines (Ryanair, Wizzair) that offer super cheap flight deals to Aqaba or Amman. In this case, you save a lot of money on your flight to Jordan.
Check the best flight deals here.
Price of eating out in Jordan
Unless you go to a fancy restaurant, eating local food in simple restaurants costs only a few dollars.
Price of accommodation in Jordan
There is a wide range of accommodations in Jordan, but fortunately, low-budget travelers also have several options. You can stay for the night in Wadi Rum in a desert for a few dollars, but there are luxury desert camps for a couple of hundred euros.
Package tours
Multi-day programs that cover the main highlights (Petra, Wadi Rum, Dead Sea) are very popular. These private tours are a comfortable way to discover the places with a private guide, but they cost hundreds of dollars.
Transport
The lack of public transport can increase your travel costs in Jordan as a solo traveler. As mentioned, all bus routes and services linked to tourist activities are higher.
Renting a car is the easiest way to visit Jordan, with the flexibility to stop at several stunning viewpoints and get to every corner of the country. You can rent a car starting from 25-40 USD/day, depending on the extra insurance you choose.
Petrol prices
Jordan’s petrol prices are not as low as in many other countries in the Middle East for a simple reason. Jordan has no oil resources. The previous King Hussein had a good relationship with Saddam Hussein, the Iraqi president, who granted oil for a reasonable price. But now petrol prices are higher, 1.02JOD/liter (one full tank 40JOD), which is close to Western prices and not what you expect compared to the surrounding oil-rich countries.
Tips for traveling on a budget in Jordan as a solo traveler
– If you are a solo traveler, you can reduce the costs by visiting most attractions by public transport and only renting a car for a few days to get to places that are not accessible with buses and shared taxis
– Check-in your hotel/hostel if they organize tours to share with others
– Stay in cheap hostels and simple desert camps
– Don’t book multi-day package tours. Of course, you can only go on a group tour in the Wadi Rum desert by an organized tour. However, you can book that separately at the entrance of the Visitor Center or in your camp, joining other people.
– Buy the Jordan Pass (if you are eligible) to save money
– Travel outside the peak season when prices are lower (January, February, November) unless you plan to hike in the wadis.
Wadi Rum jeep tours
Taking a Wadi rum Jeep tour is a must, even if you only plan a shorter Jordan itinerary, as this is one of the highlights of traveling to Jordan.
How to book your Wadi Rum tours?
You can book your desert camp and jeep tour together as all camps organize it for their guests.
You can also book your jeep tour upon arrival at the Visitor Center in Rum village.
Or you can book your Wadi Rum tours in advance.
The most typical is the 4-hour jeep tour that includes the following stops:
– Lawrence Spring and Lawrence House
– One of the rock bridges (little bridge, Umm Frouth rock bridge, or Burdah rock bridge)
– Khazali canyon with some 2000-year-old inscriptions
– Nabatean temple with an inscription dating back to the 2nd century BC and the seven pillars of wisdom rock formation
– Mushroom rock after its shape
Apart from that, you can have a full-day or multi-day jeep tour, camel ride, or hiking or walk around and enjoy the desert.
Tip: Spend a night in Wadi Rum
There are different ways to visit Wadi Rum. Either take the usual 4-day tour, or you can have a full-day tour and combine all that with an overnight in one of the Bedouin camps.
Wadi Rum is the area around the barren riverbed of the Rum River, which is perhaps one of the most beautiful desert landscapes in the world with exotic rock forms and canyons. Staying in the desert is the best way to immerse in its serenity. The moving sun changes the rocks’ colors making the scenery continuously different.
There are camps for every budget, from simple to luxury camps.
Check the list of Wadi Rum camps
Best Jordan (road trip) itinerary
Having the best itinerary is one of the most important things when planning your trip to Jordan. It is worth spending at least 5 days in Jordan, but ideally, make a 7 or 10-day Jordan itinerary. The best plan depends on, of course, your place of arrival and departure and if you prefer a cultural tour or want to include hiking as well.
Check my post about the 5, 7 and 10 days Jordan travel itineraries.
Jordan adventure: hiking in the wadis
Hiking in one of the beautiful wadis (canyons) that run deep in the mountains can be the highlight of a 10-day Jordan itinerary when you have enough time to enjoy the amazing nature. Wadi Mujib and Wadi Numeira (Water Petra) are two popular trails. However, there are a couple of things to remember before going to the wadis of Jordan.
Important: Wadis can be dangerous due to flash floods
If they anticipate rain, don’t even think about going to a wadi. Rain can suddenly change the circumstances and turn peaceful streams into flash floods, with death cases every year. Always check the weather forecast in advance. Some wadis can be completed alone, but you can always join a group, and sometimes you must hire a licensed hiking guide to complete the trails. In this case, you are not alone when something happens.
How to dress up for hiking in the Wadis?
Expect to hike in water, sometimes to the waist, slide down the rocks, jump into pools, and go under waterfalls. You can get entirely wet while hiking, making the hot weather more bearable.
Best time to go hiking in the wadis in Jordan
April – October is the best time for that as most of them are closed during winter or not wholly accessible. Even during that period, the opening time can be postponed based on weather conditions and water level. Always check before you go.
Local tours Jordan
There are several one- and multi-day trips in Jordan if you are not backpacking in Jordan or don’t self-drive.
The best day trips from Amman
There are plenty of possibilities to make day trips from Amman to discover other parts of Jordan. However, if you have more time, I recommend spending some nights at Petra, the Dead Sea and Wadi Rum to get immersed in local culture.
These are the best day trips from Amman:
Madaba, Mont Nebo, Jerash from Amman
Desert castles and Ajloun castle
Madaba, Mt. Nebo, and Ma’in Hot Springs
Local tours in Amman
Street food and downtown tour in Amman
Half-day cooking class in Amman
Amman sightseeing with optional Arabic mezze lunch and Turkish bath
Take a local cooking class in Beit Sitti (the menu changes according to the day)
Multi-day trips in Jordan
Wadi Rum Full Day Jeep Tour – Overnight in Panoramic Tent – Traditional Food
Petra, Wadi Rum and Dead Sea tour from Amman (2 days)
Weekend in Jordan
Friday and Saturday are weekends in Jordan when locals mostly go to the Dead Sea, stop at the viewpoints along the road, go to the shores, or drive inside some wadis and have a picnic. If you want to visit Hammamat Ma’in, avoid Fridays and Saturdays as the pool gets crowded with local men.
If you are flexible with your Jordan itinerary, try to avoid Wadi Mujib and places around the Dead Sea at the weekend.
How to visit Petra in one day?
Petra is the main attraction that every traveler includes in their Jordan itinerary. However, there are a couple of questions coming up:
– Should you spend one day or 2 days in Petra?
– What are the best trails to take in Petra?
– How to dress up for your day in Petra?
– Is Petra by night worth the money?
Since there are so many things to know, I made a separate post about the best 1 and 2 days Petra itinerary with all you need to know.
Jordanian people and hospitality
Although the vast majority of the population is a follower of Islam, the constitution guarantees the free choice of religion.
Jordanian society includes ethnic minorities, such as Circassians, Kurds, Turkomans, Chechens, and Armenians.
The population of Jordan mainly consists of the following three demographic groups:
– semi-nomadic Bedouins, who are now primarily settled on the outskirts of cities
– those who arrived from the surrounding countries (Syria, Iraq, Palestine, Lebanon, Saudi Arabia) at the beginning of the 20th century
– residents of cities and villages whose ancestors settled centuries or millennia ago.
Most Jordanians are often very helpful and invite you for tea or to join them for a picnic. They like talking to tourists, and their generous hospitality makes travelers fall in love with the country.
The Bedouins in Jordan
The Bedouins are the original nomadic inhabitants of Jordan who live in the desert. Without them, the country would be unimaginable today. There are still hundreds of thousands of them. They are mainly involved in camel and horse breeding and migrate following the grazing needs of their animals. During rainy winters, they drive their flocks into the desert and approach the cultivated areas in the dry summer months.
Wadi Rum is home to AL Zlabiah, while Petra is home to Bdul Bedouins, but the real Bedouins live in the Mafraq, Kerak, Madaba, and Azraq areas.
Despite modernization, the Bedouins of Jordan still pursue the traditional lifestyle and are an essential part of Jordanian cultural heritage. However, the political and economic changes forced more and more to switch to a settled lifestyle. There is still a great deal of controversy among Bedouins and settlers over land use. Today, most Bedouins are involved in tourism. They take tourists on desert tours in Wadi Rum and cater to the tourists in Petra. Despite modernization, having radio and jeeps, the Bedouin society has retained its tribal character and is still characterized by large families, polygamy, and endogamy.
How to plan your trip to Jordan?
Flights: find the best flight deals on Skyscanner
Rent a car: Check Discover Cars‘ deals for driving around in Jordan (the best way to discover the country)
Insurance: Safetywing is a cheap insurance that covers all medical issues, including COVID-related ones. This is what I use every time.
Hotel/Hostel: Booking.com
Local tours and guides in Jordan: Toursbylocals, GetYourGuide and Viator offer several customized tours to Petra
Recently, most Bedouins have moved to cities such as Amman, joined the business world, served in the military, or taken government jobs.
Bedouins are famous for their hospitality and feel obliged to welcome any visitors. They offer the best food for the guest with lots of tea and coffee.
Most Bedouins in the desert still wear ancient folk costumes, a long dress with a dagger attached to the belt as a symbol of masculinity. Bedouin women have more diverse clothing; their faces are tattooed and sometimes covered with a veil. Tattoos are meant to keep evil away.
Bedouins of Petra
Petra is the exclusive territory of the Bedouins, who take tourists on camels or donkeys, sell souvenirs or ask for money to show the best photo spots.
Marguerite van Geldermalsen, a lady from New Zealand, wrote a book about her life and marriage to a Bedouin in Petra. They first lived in a cave and then moved to Umm Sayhoun village, where she still lives as a widow. The case is no longer unique at all, and since then, there have been countless marriages between Bedouins and foreigners.
The Bedouins speak a particular Arabic dialect that is not understood in the rest of Jordan because they use different pronunciations, words, and phrases. However, they understand the Arabic of Jordan.
In 1985, the Jordanian government reclaimed and opened Petra for tourism. The Bedouins from the Bdul tribe who lived here moved to the neighboring town of Umm Sayhoun, where each Bedouin family received a house. Umm Sayhoun has become a permanent Bedouin settlement.
The government officially supports the Bedouin community from the Petra ticket income. However, they say they hardly get anything of that.
I was talking to a Bedouin boy who also has a house in Umm Sayhoun but prefers sleeping in his cave in Petra.
“I only sleep there, and I only go to shower in the house, change the donkeys and buy food.” – he said
“I never went to school; I can’t read or write. Wadi Musa (a town near Petra) is also very rare. If I had to live outside Petra, I think I would die. I don’t know how the world outside Petra works….”
Bedouins in Wadi rum
The desolate but beautiful landscape is the home of the Bedouins, the experts of the desert. Most of them belong to the Huwaitat, one of the largest tribes in southern Jordan, and consider themselves descendants of the Prophet Muhammad. Some are desert nomads, and the rest live a settled life. The local Bedouins are proud but extremely friendly, especially those in the desert.
Many Bedouin families continue the herding-nomadic desert lifestyle of their ancestors, although most of them add a Toyota van to the camel-goat-tent combination.
Is Jordan a conservative Muslim country?
97 % of the population in Jordan is Muslim, with a significant Christian minority. Tourism is booming in Jordan, and people are used to seeing foreigners. But Jordanian families still adhere to traditional values, with the countryside always being more conservative than city life. Family ties and traditional roles are very much existent in Jordanian society.
Gender segregation still exists today. However, it is not so strict apart from mosques, houses, and some restaurants. It is rare to kill newborn baby girls and circumcise women. Few women wear a hijab (head cover), and almost no one wears a chador.
Pre-arranged marriages by the family are commonplace, and cousins often intermarry. But most don’t force their children into an unwanted marriage. Many families, especially in rural homes, have maintained segregation within the house, with men and women using different rooms.
At birth, they whisper the creed in their ears, hold a ceremony one week later, shave their heads, and slaughter an animal. The most remarkable event for boys between the ages of 7 and 12 is circumcision.
Do you want to know more about Jordanian culture, life and history? Check this list of the best books about Jordan.
Jordan dress code: what clothes to wear in Jordan as a woman
Jordan is not the most conservative Muslim country, Amman is quite open, but you still have to pay attention to what you wear in Jordan. Generally, you should dress up modestly in any Muslim country to respect Muslim values and culture. However, Aqaba, a holiday resort, welcomes many female travelers who walk around skirts and summer dresses. Though local women always cover their bodies.
But even in Aqaba, swimming at a public beach is not allowed in a bikini, only at a hotel’s private beach.
Like most men in Arab countries, Jordanians wear long trousers and shirts. As a male tourist, you are free to wear what you want.
The dress code in Jordan is not especially strict, but if you want to avoid too much attention, you had better cover your shoulders and knees. Loose clothing in Jordan can make men think you are an easy target. It is not the case in every Middle Eastern country, but I had this feeling in Jordan.
Women in Jordan
Women have a better position than in most countries in the Middle East. They got the right to vote in 1974, although they could only exercise it in 1989. It was pretty late for the region, as Israel, Syria, Lebanon, Egypt, Yemen, Turkey, and Iran had all granted women suffrage by 1967.
Women drive a car and can also work in male-dominated sectors. In 2001, the legal age for marriage was raised to 18 years for both sexes. Before that, it was 15 years for women and 16 years for men. In exceptional cases, if approved by the Court, marriage is also allowed at the age of 15-18. In 2019, there was a debate about raising the minimum age to 16, but Jordan’s parliament voted against it, to the disappointment of many women and human rights activists.
Women are also found in male-dominated professions. The first female MP was elected in 1993. Since then, thanks to a quota system introduced by the king, a certain number of seats have been attributed to women. 15 of 130 (12%) seats in the Majlis Al-Nuwaab / House of Representatives are held by women. Toujan al-Faisal was a TV journalist and human right activist.
In 1997, Jordan had the first female taxi driver, in 1996 the first Judge, in 1995 the first mayor, and in 2001 the first female ambassador to the EU.
Even though women managed to rise to high positions, social inequalities are remarkable. Most women work in health care and education, least in the media and politics.
Polygamy is rare in Jordan. The law requires the husband to notify his wife of his intention to marry.
From 2002, women could also file for divorce if they refunded the dowry they received at the wedding. Nevertheless, divorce is still badly seen by society.
Honor killings
Rural families still follow ancient traditions. Honor killings still happen despite Jordan being the most liberal country in the region for rejecting a pre-arranged marriage, abandoning her husband, having a sexual relationship out of wedlock, or being raped. Female members of the family are often complicit in the murders. Honor killings are explained by cultural traditions and do not come from Islam.
The Jordanian Penal Code legalizes the practice by exempting the husband or close male relative from the charge of murder. King Abdullah tried to introduce a harsher punishment in 2003, but the parliament rejected it. Jordanian journalist Rana Hussein investigated honor killings in Jordan.
Her book Murder in the Name of Honour: The True Story of One Woman’s Heroic Fight Against an Unbelievable Crime is an interesting read about this topic.
I hope you found this post useful about all the things you need to know for planning a trip to Jordan. It includes everything you need to know, from the dress code in Jordan to the best time to visit, the Jordan Pass and how to travel on a budget, and local tours worth taking. Check out my other articles that help you plan your trip as well.
More books to read about Jordan
Other articles about Jordan
The perfect Petra one and two-day itinerary in Petra
Visiting Jerash, Ajloun and Umm Qais
Jordan desert castles: a day trip from Amman
5, 7 and 10 day Jordan travel itineraries
Other posts about the Middle East
Lebanon
10-day itinerary to visit Lebanon
How to spend 2-3 days in Beirut
Travel guide to Tripoli, Lebanon
Best books to read about Lebanon
Iran
What you can and cannot do in Iran
45 things you must know before traveling to Iran
The best books to read about Iran
The best 2-week itinerary in Iran (the classical route)
All you need to know about the Iranian currency
Traveling around Lebanon during the economic crisis
The best things to do in Tehran
Travel guide to Tabriz, North Iran
Travel guide to Mashhad, the holy city of Iran
Best things to do in Lahijan, the city of tea in Iran
Best things to do in Ramsar at the Caspian Sea
Visit Varzaneh desert, Toudeshk, Mesr desert and Garmeh from Isfahan
The best places to visit in Tehran (museums, palaces, religious sites)
Iraq
All you need to know before traveling to Iraq
What to visit in Baghdad in 3-4 days
The best books to read about Iraq (constantly updated)
Visiting Lalish, the holy place of Yezidi people
How to visit Babylon and other places around Hillah
Most interesting places to visit in Iraq