WHY INDIA IS A LOVE OR HATE THING?

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Many people hesitate whether they should go to India or not. They are curious about this exotic country but have doubts at the same time because India looks scary through the media. It seems dirty, messy, chaotic, lacking basic hygiene, dangerous for solo travelers, and so on. When it comes to India, there are no neutral opinions. Unarguably, it is not for everyone. It is a love-or-hate thing. If you are one of those hesitating if India is something for you, please read this article, because I tell the truth about what it is really like and why some hate while others love India. 

I also think that if you have a better understanding of a place, your feelings can completely change. I have been working as a tour guide in India for ten years. Guests often come to me at the end of the tour saying that, with all the information they got, it is impossible not to like India. It probably would not have been the case if they completed the itinerary only with a guidebook. To get a deeper insight, I highly recommend hiring a tour guide or join at least some daily tours.

The reason why opinions about India vary extremely is that it is so different from anything else. It is an Asian country but has not much in common with its neighbors (except Pakistan and Bangladesh). The touristic slogan „Incredible India” describes it perfectly. As I said, I have been plenty of times in India, especially in the north. But this country can still surprise me. There is always something that never happened before, and sometimes you do not believe your eyes. And I do also hate it sometimes for all the occuring problems.

India is a big culture shock that affects all your senses. In one moment you are fed up, in the other you adore it. India is an emotional roller coaster.

Thailand was the only Asian country I had been to before and it didn’t make a big impression on me. But I liked India from the very first minute. Perhaps it is also a matter of personality.

When we talk about the love-and-hate relationship with India, you have to think about the most touristic part, the Golden Triangle. And let’s say further down till Mumbai and to the East, including Varanasi. The problem is that most tourists only take a Golden Triangle tour to see the Taj Mahal and believe that it represents the whole of India. But that‘s not the case. The Delhi-Agra-Jaipur route extended to Rajasthan or Khajuraho, and Varanasi is incredible and probably also the messiest. You would have a different experience in the lush, green, and more peaceful South-India or the Eastern part. The northernmost Ladakh is an entirely different world close to the Himalayas, Buddhist monasteries, and perfect cleanliness. 

That’s why I want to stress that the below warning applies to a visit to the most touristic Golden Triangle and other metropolises of India. Other parts of India do not create a sharp love-and-hate attitude.  

So, the reason why India can be a bad experience for some

1. You cannot stick to your schedule because time is not calculable in India 

The population of India in 2021 amounts to 1.31 billion. Delhi and Mumbai are among the ten most populated cities in the world. It becomes almost impossible to keep track of the population as it increases by a million a year. The big cities are overcrowded, and it can take long hours to cross Delhi or Mumbai. Because of that, it is hard to keep your schedule. Every day, approximately one million people use the Delhi Metro. 

The traffic is something that first strikes you. Cars, auto-rickshaws, cycle-rickshaws, buses, scooters try to use every tiny space to get ahead. At the entrance of Delhi, cars occupy 20 lines. It is also not unusual to see a whole family with children sitting on one motorbike.

It is not better outside the city either. If there is an accident, you can spend 4-5 hours until the traffic finally moves on. 

2. Due to the overpopulation and traffic, pollution is unbearable sometimes

Due to the enormous traffic the pollution is a constant problem in Delhi. Sometimes the city gets covered by such a thick layer of smog that the visibility drastically shrinks. The heavy smog harms the health of those living here permanently. The Indian government advises the people not to leave their homes then and closes the schools for some days until the air clears up. Those who can afford it already started to move out to the modern outskirts of Delhi.

3. India is extremely noisy

The big cities are unusually loud. It seems that Indians rarely sleep. Rickshaws, buses, cars, motorbikes are honking from 5 a.m. till midnight. So, you have to deal with the noise as long as you are in a big city. 

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4. The bumpy roads make traveling uncomfortable

The highways that connect the big cities are relatively good, especially the one between Delhi and Agra. But a road other than the highway can be pretty crap. And then you will see how a 120 km journey can last four hours.  

5. Poverty is visible at every corner, which not everybody can handle emotionally

It is heartbreaking to see the number of poor people in India. 20-25% live under the poverty line, and around 60% just slightly above. As we hear that the Indian economy grows at a high rate, and the IT sector is booming, we do not expect that half of the city-dwellers live in slums and many homeless in tents along the roads. Children and women are begging at every road crossing. But of course, there are a lot of shelters for homeless people, and the government provides them with food.

6. The amount of rubbish and dirtiness is shocking 

We must say that India is pretty dirty. It is not something that disturbs me too much, as I am more interested in the culture than focusing on that. But it can be too annoying for some. Inside the gates, the monuments are in perfect care. But as soon as you leave the hotel or the tourist attractions, the difference is striking. I must say though, that there has been an improvement. Since Prime Minister Narendra Modi launched the “Clean India, Green India” project, there is a visible change. There are much more public toilets, although peeing on the street is still a common sight. And cities also became cleaner.

7. Beggars can be annoyingly pushy 

In the most touristic parts of India, beggars rush to you as soon as you get out of your vehicle. There are places where you have no chance to escape. For example, when you stand in the queue to get on the elephant up to the Amber Fort in Jaipur. They jump on the jeep you are sitting in and won’t let you go. The constant fight and bargaining with the sellers are tiring. If you travel around the Golden Triangle, Fatehpur Sikri is a must-see. But the beggars go over every limit here.

The problem is that they get free access to the Jama Masjid (Friday Mosque) as it is a praying place. For that, tourists started lately to skip the Jama Masjid and only visit the palace complex. It is a pity because the mosque with the Sufi saint’s shrine is stunning. There is a security issue at the same time. The beggars are usually small children who divert your attention and look for the moment to take your wallet. 

8. There are plenty of pickpockets

Take care of your bags and valuables all the time. I always keep my bag in front of me, holding it tight in my hand. When you pay for something, try to take out your wallet without showing how much money you have inside! Locals always have one eye on your wallet. Do not pay with big notes and do not ask for change from street sellers. They may run away and never come back. But of course, that happens in other countries too.

9. Independent travel is possible but not so easy

India has an expansive railway network and good bus connections as well. You can book your train tickets online here:  https://www.irctc.co.in/nget/train-search. The Delhi Railway Station is now open for foreigners 24 hours a day. To arrive at the Delhi or Mumbai train station with millions of people struggling to find their trains is another shock. Foreigners usually travel first class for some extra charge as it is more comfortable and safer for a night journey. It might be scary to get on the metro of Delhi in rush hours. Metro cars are crammed, and it looks like a mission impossible to get yourself close to the door to get off. If you are a solo female traveler, you should avoid going out at night alone. Unfortunately, sexual crimes are common in big cities.

10. After more than two weeks’ travel in India, stomach problems are common even if you stay in hotels

It depends on how sensitive your stomach is, but the spicy food becomes overwhelming after a couple of weeks. The quality of food is good in hotels. You can eat dairy products and fruits as well. And I do not say that you should avoid eating fast food in the street. But listen to your instincts, which one can be reliable and which one to avoid.

If you have a problem, the best thing is to drink a Coke and take local medicine. Believe me, the one from home will not help. Go to the chemist and ask for a tablet for diarrhea. You take only one of that, and at the end of the day, you feel better. But it is much better to prevent all the problems and take some spirits from home or get a bottle of famous Old Monk Indian rum or whisky in the wine shop. One shot a day does help.

11. They often want to cheat you with fake products or prices 

Officially, foreigners pay much more for an entrance fee than locals. That is something not unique to India. But wherever you go to buy a drink, a meal, even medicine, they will try to charge you more. There is not much you can do about that.

Bargaining in the bazaar is part of the culture, and it depends on you what deal you make. But you have less influence on the quality of the products. A handmade carpet that is months of work and a piece of jewelry with precious stones may not be what you paid for. Be very careful with the tourist traps. It happens as well that you get fake money as a change, but there is no way that you recognize it as a foreigner. 

They try to sell you small statues of Hindu Gods, supposedly out of sandalwood, charging an excessive price. But do not let yourself get fooled! They spray to get the sandal smell and try to hoodwink you.

Nothing is free! It is a common trick that they come to you at the monuments and start to explain a bit about the history “just to practice English”, “free of cost”, but in the end, you cannot leave without paying.

If you travel to Varanasi, the holiest city, it is absolutely a nightmare. Do not try to get close to the cremation places without a local guide, let alone take a photo. They spot you, chase you saying it is forbidden, and want to charge you even hundreds of dollars as compensation. Varanasi is such an incredible place to see, but you do not always feel welcome.

Read this article about shopping in Delhi to avoid the tourist trap

So, why do people still fall in love with India?

1. India constantly teaches you something that makes you become a different person

You often hear that a trip to India changes your attitude. You start to appreciate your circumstances much more and will be more satisfied with what you have. Indeed, that is already a reason itself why everybody should visit India once in their lives.

The strong family bonds, how family members can count on each other, are impressive for a Western traveler. Lonely people are rare in India. 

Many Indians live in extreme poverty but are still able to smile and look happier than many Westerns who live in far better conditions. It is one of the striking things about India.

2. The culture is so unique, and many ancient traditions are still part of the daily life

It is impossible to sum up all the things that are unique to India. First, it is the birthplace of 4 religions: Hinduism, Jainism, Sikhism and Buddhism. India has enrooted old traditions that faded with time but did not vanish. The caste system and arranged marriages are still an integral part of the society.

The power of religion is striking. They worship the Gods as idols in temples, and even poor people do not hesitate to leave some donations. Religious Hindus dip in holy rivers to get blessed and wish to die in Varanasi, to get rid of the circle of rebirths, and acquire direct salvation. 

3. Endless breathtaking places to visit

There are probably a few well-known sites in India that come to your mind. But India has so many hidden gems. The Abaneri stepwell between Jaipur and Agra is jaw-dropping as well as the tiny Orchha town, the forts of Rajasthan, or the view of Udaipur. The Jain temple in Ranakpur in the middle of nowhere up in the Aravalli Mountains, the Sikh Golden Temple in Amritsar, the erotic temples of Khajuraho, the cave temples of Ajanta and Ellora – just to mention a few – are worth a visit. After seeing the Taj Mahal, you would not expect anything better, but you will recognize by traveling through India that there are far more surprises.

4. It is so much fun to be in India

Take a crazy tour with an auto-rickshaw in the crowded streets, an elephant ride, a jeep safari to spot tigers, a boat trip on the backwaters of Kerala, or visit Hindu and Sikh temples and mosques, or participate in a colorful Hindu festival. You can attend a folklore evening to watch Indian dances or watch a Bollywood movie in the cinema.

5. Indian kitchen is one of the best in the world

Local dishes are not simply spicy. They use fresh ingredients and a wide variety of spices that make the Indian food so delicious. It is a paradise for vegetarians. Many Hindus avoid eating meat, which means that the choice of vegetarian food is immense. 

6. Indians are the Jack-of-all-trades, and they solve your problems in no time

Probably more problems pop up in India, but they can solve things quicker than you could imagine in your home country. Your phone is soaked, a vehicle got a puncture at night, or you need a complete suit ready within few hours? Who will stitch your costume in few hours in a Western country and have it delivered to your room? You can probably throw your phone away once you dropped it in water, as it costs more to have it fixed than buying a new one. Vehicles work on an electric system, and you are not supposed to touch it without a mechanic. In India, everything is possible. They may not have the same top-notch tools everywhere, but they still know how to make things work in an old-fashioned but very efficient way.

7. The spiritual aspect of India attracts many people to find peace

Ashrams (meditation centers) welcome visitors for meditation and yoga all over India. Rishikesh is a popular choice among tourists. People come to India for some months and get a spiritual refreshment. Indians have an immense knowledge about spiritualism.

8. Indians are helpful, friendly and welcoming

Do not be afraid to ask for help from locals. They give a hand and show respect towards visitors. For Indians from the countryside, a white person is a curiosity. So they grab every opportunity to take a selfie for their memories. 

It is part of the culture that they never say no. It can be annoying because even if they cannot help, an Indian will not say no. But their intention is good. That is the most important. 

9. India is an incredible place

Maneuvering in the crazy traffic with a cycle or auto-rickshaw is a lifetime experience. If there is an empty ground, you see children play cricket. Cricket is above everything.

Holy cows cross the highway and have rest in the middle of the road. They are free to do whatever they want. But an elephant or a camel can also wander in the streets of a metropolis. 

In some parts, people still travel on top of the train to avoid paying for the ticket.

When it comes to Holi, Indians turn crazy and throw colorful powders and pour liquids on each other.  

10. India is a heaven for shopping – top-quality for a reasonable price

Indians produce amazing stuff. Whether you are looking for wood carvings, jewelry, carpets, or textile, you can find everything. Shopping malls have all the Western clothes for a better price. They are masters of ayurvedic and beauty products (Himalaya brand).

11. India is so colorful

Many women still wear the traditional Saari or the shalwar-Kameez (trousers and blouse combination with a scarf). Lively colors dominate the fashion in India, which makes it so joyful.  

All in all, India may not be your favorite destination if

– If you hate when things do not work according to schedule, and you do not have the patience to handle the problems

– You are annoyed by constant honking and shouting

– If you hate dirty places

– You cannot handle the pushy beggars and the immense poverty

Of course, traveling in a group reduces the inconveniences. But if you completely lack the above, India may be disappointing for you. If you are ok with all that, then do not hesitate for a minute. India will be one of the most rewarding journeys of your life, and you have a good chance to fall in love with it like many others!